Tag: Seafood

‘Oh, for a beaker full of the warm South’

Roujan 2026

Like Keats with his ‘purple-stained mouth’, I was in search of ‘a draught of vintage’. I found many beakers in the Languedoc earlier this year.

Languedoc produces more wine than any region in France, even Bordeaux.

Encompassing many appellations, it’s a useful one to look out for in the UK; the wines usually offer good value, especially compared with fashionable Provence.

Vines are in evidence everywhere, going about their useful work; the climate is too hot to support significant farming of livestock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were invited to stay by our friend Rosemary George MW, a wine writer who divides her time between London and the South of France. At the time of our visit, she was in the process of updating her book ‘The Wines of Faugères’ for its second edition.

https://www.rosemary-george-mw.com/

We tailed along for her research. It was, as they say a tough job…..

Actually, tasting wines from the barrel is quite challenging, as is making intelligent comments at the same time. Fortunately Rosemary’s extensive knowledge and fluent French covered any gaps.

We visited three producers in three days, all family owned estates.

First stop, Mas Gabriel in Pézenas.

L-R: Bob Koprowski, Rosemary, Peter and Anne

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peter Core and his wife Deborah met in London in the 1990s, and in 2002 decided to pursue their dream to make wine in France. They started by going to New Zealand, learning viticulture and winemaking. In Languedoc, they fell in love with a small vineyard, found a vigneron’s house, and created their first vintage in 2006.

Their white wines are dry, rich and textured, with lovely fruit; they’re made from Vermentino (known locally as Rolle), a favourite of mine, blended with Grenache Blanc.

Of the reds we tried, Peter described Clos des Lièvres 2022 as ‘a toddler’. Named for the hares that run in the vineyard, it’s a blend of 75-80% Syrah with Grenache, aged in French 500 litre barrels for a year. At the time of writing the 2021 vintage is on offer from The Wine Society in the UK, reduced from £21 to £16.50 per bottle (see below).

As we entered the tasting room, I couldn’t help noticing a saxophone in the corner.

Among the black-and-white photos of jazz musicians, there were three of Peter himself on sax.

This striking image, supposedly signed by Billie Holiday, is actually Lorraine Glover, wife of the trumpeter Donald Byrd, photographed in New York.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peter showed us his prized possession, a copy of the greatest jazz photo ever.

‘A Great Day in Harlem’ was taken in 1958 by Art Kane. Fifty-seven of the great names of the golden age of jazz answered the call to appear.

Some of them even turned up on time.

Sonny Rollins, the last musician in the photo still standing, died this year.

There’s a documentary about the creation of this ‘family reunion’ of jazz stars:

https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=crmas&ei=UTF-8&p=a+great+day+in+harlem#id=1&vid=df240d18d2b2853aae86e420290a773e&action=click

 

 

Next day, Félines Jourdain,

where they make Picpoul (the grape) in Pinet (the location).

arriving in Rosemary’s trusty Fiat 500

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our hostess Claude joined the family business in 1995 and now runs all aspects of the estate. Their labels follow a feline theme, ranging from a black kitten to a majestic panther.

We tasted five whites and a light red. The Picpoul Classique 2025 has concentrated fruit, citrus, crushed grapes; any hint of ripe sweetness is overtaken by salinity – hence its affinity with seafood. Mists off the nearby Thau Lagoon refresh the vines.

Like Mas Gabriel, Félines Jourdain wines have been available from The Wine Society since 1998; their rosé is a bargain at £8.50.

Picpoul de Pinet is a perfect match for oysters from the Thau basin.

We deserved a break for lunch.

Rosemary had booked a table upstairs at Le Grand Bleu.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed an (almost) uninterrupted view of the oyster and mussel beds in the lagoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We ordered oysters, naturally, and prawns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And two mussel dishes; these moules gratinées were outstanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the third day, we rose again, this time to visit Cottebrune, A.O.C. Faugères.

Pierre-Antoine Gaillard explained that Cottebrune is ‘the family name of my mum’.

His father Pierre, a winemaker from Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône, acquired the domaine in Faugères in 2007, then another in Banyuls on the Mediterranean coast.

‘It’s quiet here, and wild’ said Pierre-Antoine, whereas Banyuls is ‘paradise’.

We tasted half a dozen vintages in bottle, from 2021 to 2024.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘Would you like to try some from the casks?’ asked Pierre-Antoine.

I resisted a reply of ‘Hell Yeah!’ and politely followed our host down to the cellar; this was the first time I can remember trying wine from the barrel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pierre-Antoine skilfully drew out the samples with a glass pipette.

We tasted individual varietals from the 2025 vintage, which would be blended before bottling.

It was time for a quiet lie-down before dinner.

Asparagus was the biggest I’ve ever seen, and the artichoke was the size of a sturdy child’s head.

 

 

 

 

I was able to have souvenirs delivered to my door.

Flying on Ryanair, we were unable to purchase bottles to carry home, but both Mas Gabriel and Félines Jourdain are represented by The Wine Society, and Vinceremos in Leeds has a comprehensive selection from Mas Gabriel.

At the time of writing, Mas Gabriel Clos des Lièvres 2021 is on Sale from The Wine Society:

https://www.thewinesociety.com/product/coteaux-du-languedoc-clos-des-lievres-mas-gabriel-2021-en.aspx

https://www.thewinesociety.com/search-results/?q=felines%20joudain

https://www.vinceremos.co.uk/?post_types=product&s=mas+gabriel

As far as I can ascertain, unfortunately Domaine Cottebrune’s wines are currently not available in the UK.

Domaine Cottebrune

 

Bidding farewell to Peter Core, vigneron / saxophonist

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to Rosemary for arranging the visits, our hosts for their generosity, and Bob Koprowski for his photos.

Venice revisited: shopping, lunch and two dinners

That’s not two dinners on one night. Obviously.

Our partner in crime on this trip was Alison, chef of her own restaurant in Norfolk for many years.

It was her first time in Italy and, as a fellow food obsessive, I was excited to show her the markets. Her husband declined to join us, knowing that food would be the dominant subject of conversation.

He was right. Here we are, photographing Puntarelle (it’s a chicory, dressed with anchovies and garlic and…. alright, we’ll stop now).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We went to Rialto and discussed the price of fish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We decided against the Goby,

 

 

 

 

 

 

but it was worth it for people watching,

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then lunch at Bancogiro, site of the world’s first public merchant bank. Their terrace overlooks the Grand Canal, a few steps from Rialto Bridge.

There’s a menu, but it’s better to go into the bar and choose your cicheti from the glass cabinet, order a glass of wine, (or it’s always Spritz o’clock) and they’ll bring it all to your table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dinner at Osteria alle Testiere, where ‘it’s always SHOWTIME!’

Alle Testiere is an absolute legend. It’s one of those restaurants where the guests are eager to impress their hosts.

It’s essential to make your reservation well ahead. We like to book for the second service, and we’re usually the last to leave.

It’s tiny, founded 33 years ago by Luca di Vita and Bruno Gavagnin, who were formerly head waiter and chef respectively at Corte Sconta, renowned for its seafood.

It’s a long menu. Fish is the point here, they’re closed on Sunday and Monday, because the Rialto market isn’t open.

Luca took our order:

‘Three turbot? I hope we have enough’.

After dinner, Ali engaged Luca in conversation.

‘Bruno goes to Rialto every day, he’s like a child in a sweet shop, he wants to buy everything’.

Ali confided that in her restaurant she listed three choices for each course on her menu.

‘That’s my dream’ said Luca, ‘and the same for the wine list – just three that will go with anything you order’.

 

 

 

 

 

 

With that in mind, we ordered three desserts: pannacotta, zabaglione and a glorious dark chocolate mousse, swimming in a lagoon of Amaro.

Alle Testiere is open for lunch, and two sittings in the evening (book it as soon as you’ve booked your flight).

Trattoria del Local

Ali flew home the next day, and we decided to try the recent offshoot of Ristorante Local, which opened ten years ago and now has a Michelin star.

The young owners, Benedetta and Luca Fullin, were looking for somewhere nearby to store wine for Local, but when the opportunity came up to buy the premises from Olive Nera, the restaurant next door, they couldn’t resist…..

It’s pretty inside and, like Testiere, it’s small.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The wine list offers wines by the 125cl glass or 250cl carafe; the full list is available by scanning a code to your phone (a skill beyond my pay grade).

We had a vermouth, ‘classic from Turin’, and a glass of sparkling Franciacorta as aperitifs, then shared a carafe of ‘Giulietta’, a Garganega/Traminer blend; golden nectar, redolent of greengage, melon and honey.

Starters were a delicate snapper mousse, and an exemplary vitello tonnato.

 

 

 

 

 

Mains were lagoon fish with a rich stew of tomato, onion and capers.

I asked for a glass of light red wine, and was recommended a Carmenere by Inama, a favourite producer of fine Soave.

We shared a selection of hard cheeses, then a ‘Bonet’, a dark chocolate crème caramel. I couldn’t resist the waitress’s recommendation of a 10 year old dry Marsala; ‘With the Bonet it’s the end of the world’.

To finish, I was intrigued by Grappa di Tabacco.

Benedetta suggested a smell, ‘for you to understand’, and offered me a sniff of the cork and the open bottle.

Reader, I inhaled it, and accepted a glass. It was the colour of polished brass, quite fiery and the taste had something in common with a smoky Islay whisky.

It may have been my imagination, but it reminded me of the mild hallucinogenic effect of your first cigarette.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Benedetta smiled; ‘as an ex-smoker I don’t want to like it. But I do’.

Opened early in 2025, it’s still being checked out by locals, a lot of whom were clearly in the restaurant business. I think we were probably the only non-Italians there.

As we left, the chef was enjoying a fag break (the real thing) with his mates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Full disclosure:

We spent more on dinner for two here than we had for three the night before at Testiere, but we did drink very well.

We were over excited, and turned right out of the restaurant – we should have gone left.

It’s easy to take a wrong turn in Venice.

http://www.osterialletestiere.it/

Starters & pasta 26 – 28 euros. Mains 32 euros. Desserts 12 euros. Extensive wine list from 24 euros a bottle.

http://www.trattoriadellocal.com/

Starters & pasta 16 – 25 euros. Mains 24 – 28 euros. Wine from 27 euros a bottle. Grappa di Tabacco – did I really?

‘Service please!’

Socius, Burnham Market

 

We booked a table at Socius for lunch on Wednesday 19th May, which turned out to be their first service after lockdown.

They were ‘so thrilled to be back’, and so were we.

 

The view from Table 6

 

Husband and wife team Dan and Natalie describe their menu as ‘snacks and small plates to showcase a modern, British version of tapas’, allowing you to order as much or as little as you want.

Don’t expect the tapas to have a Spanish accent; the Socius style is more influenced by Scandinavia and Japan.

 

Socius Plates

 

We thought most dishes were good for two to share; we ordered four between us, and didn’t forget to have the focaccia on the side, it’s essential for mopping; light and fluffy with a savoury crust, it came with a herb butter, whipped to a light green creaminess.

We chose the sticky king prawns with chilli glaze (Natalie says ‘we’d get into trouble if we tried to take them off the menu’).

Tuna tartare is dressed with a loose mayonnaise seasoned with chilli and ginger, bringing a well judged background warmth to the dish; it comes with a crisp wonton to scoop it up.

 

Tuna tartare, chilli, ginger, wonton

 

‘BBQ beetroot, yoghurt, horseradish, cucumber, dill’ was elegant, earthy and sweet, a salad transcending the sum of its humble parts.

 

BBQ beetroot

 

Hasselback potatoes were earthy too, with nutty skins and warm fluffy flesh. They were served with asparagus ‘salsa’, charred to retain a slight crunch, and spiked with capers.

 

Hasselback potatoes, asparagus salsa

 

Everything at Socius is cooked and presented with precision.

 

We finished with an affogato (a scoop of excellent vanilla ice cream. ‘drowned’ in espresso).

Lunch, with a glass of manzanilla and a couple of glasses of fresh zingy Verdejo, came to £58.

If there are two of you, try to ask for Table 6 – it faces the pass and you’ll see pretty much every dish plated in front of you. When it’s ready, head chef Dan calls for ‘Service please!’

If you’re a group of four, Table 2 by the window is a good alternative. We booked it for a return visit, when perhaps we’ll share the aged beef rump; it looked too much for two to share.

 

Table 2 on the right

 

The building has been designed as a restaurant, and has an unexpectedly urban feel. It faces the new car park which serves Burnham Market – if you know the town, it’s behind Satchell’s, the wine merchant.

There’s a gallery above the main space, and a table with high stools next to the ‘Wine Wall’ by the entrance.

There are about a dozen staff, half in the kitchen headed by Dan, and half waiting tables, led by the ever-smiling Natalie.

 

It’s a wonderful addition to the North Norfolk food scene. Booking ahead is essential.

https://sociusnorfolk.co.uk/

 

 

Red Gingham Tablecloths

Red gingham is a bit of a cliché, the ubiquitous table covering of an unpretentious traditional bistro in provincial France. Or so I thought.

In 2013 I came across Ristorante Tromlin in the hills overlooking the Italian city of Turin.

Torino was the capital of the Kingdom of Savoy, which also ruled Nizza, now better known as the French city of Nice.

I developed a theory that perhaps the red-and-white check entered French culture through this historical back door.

 

Ristorante Tromlin

 

The bistros of Paris were opened by people from the countryside who migrated to the city, and classic dishes from the French regions, notably Beaujolais, Alsace, and (not forgetting) Savoie became staples.

One of my favourites is La Fontaine de Mars, where the menu is firmly rooted in the French Southwest. Jambon de Bayonne is freshly cut on the red enamel slicer that gleams at you as you’re shown to your table, to nibble as you decide whether to choose cassoulet or confit de canard.

 

La Fontaine de Mars

 

Last time we were there we startled our waiter by asking if we could have a green salad with the cheese course.

‘Une salade avec du fromage? Vraiement?(shrugs)

Vive la difference!’

 

(The tablecloths are red and white gingham in my memory, but when I found this photo I realised they are actually pink. Perhaps the effect of a glass too many of their finest Cahors).

 

Then there’s Polidor, the restaurant that time forgot. The blackboard proclaims that ‘we haven’t accepted cheques since 1873’.

Woody Allen chose it as a location for ‘Midnight in Paris’, when the lead character accepts a lift by a stranger’s car which transports him back to the literary heyday of the 1920’s, where he encounters F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway in the restaurant.

 

‘We haven’t accepted cheques since 1873’

 

 

 

I remembered a visit to Mamma Mia, an Italian restaurant in Dublin.

No mistake this time, the tablecloths are proudly chequered.

 

 

Mamma Mia

 

Maybe there’s something in my theory after all.

Savoie to Paris, by way of Dublin?

I look forward to resuming the necessary research.

Food Unlocked: A Pub, a Club and a Caff.

In the heady days of July, after lockdown lifted, we cautiously put our minds to where we might like to reconnect with the pleasures of….

Now, what was it called again, that activity we had been looking forward to for months?

Ah, yes! It was called ‘Eating Out’. 

We could leave home and go away for a few days. We would go to Norfolk!

We’d go the pub!

 

The Dun Cow, Salthouse

 

It’s a pub with a large garden, overlooking the marshes.

 

View from a window table

 

 

We booked a table for supper on the evening of our arrival; we unpacked the car, got ourselves organised, and then it was a few minutes drive away.

Norfolk had escaped the worst of the pandemic, so while restrictions were duly observed, the atmosphere in the pub was relatively relaxed.

We sanitised our hands on arrival, and waited to be shown to our table. The waiting staff weren’t required to wear masks then, but the menu and wine list were ‘single use’, and we were asked to order at the bar; there were no stools for customers to sit and drink there.

We had taken two or three bites from our starters when I put down my knife and fork. They were good, but I realised what was really remarkable: this was the first plate of food I had eaten in several months that had been prepared by someone who was not sitting at the table.

And behold, for it tasted good.

 

Carpaccio of Beef

 

Carpaccio of Red Poll beef with remoulade, truffle oil, Parmesan and ‘Blakeney leaves’

 

Crab and Cod ‘Bonbons’

 

Crispy fried crab & cod bonbons with chilli & coriander, lemon & sumac yoghurt

 

And to drink? It’s an interesting wine list for a pub.

 

Hungarian Furmint by the glass, anyone?

 

 

I met her in a Club down in old Soho

 

Back in London, to lunch at The Union, the members’ club in Soho.

After lockdown they asked their members to book twice, once in July and once in August. This would enable them to keep going through the summer.

We went during what then seemed to be the never-ending heatwave. The bar and dining room were empty, everyone had elected to sit outside on the small roof terrace.

We ordered a bottle of rosé ‘to show willing’, which came with glasses that had been frosted in the freezer.

Photography is discouraged in the club, but this is a view from our table, looking up.

 

 

Blue sky over Soho

 

I snatched another photo. 

 

The Upstairs Neighbour had gone fishing.

 

 

After a leisurely lunch we were able to repair to the cool shade of the bar (and enjoy the briefest snooze) before making our way home on an almost empty tube.

 

 

Inside The Union

 

 

 

….and a Caff (indulge me here)

 

During lockdown, many restaurants had asked regular customers to invest in vouchers which could be redeemed against lunch or dinner, when such activities became possible again.

We bought them for a couple of local independent places who we wanted to support.

A birthday was approaching, so we also decided to splash out at one of our favourites.

 

The River Café

 

Despite their masks, the staff were clearly enjoying being back in the business of looking after their customers.

The menus were disposable, and we had been encouraged to study the lengthy wine list online, and choose something before the Big Night.

 

I’m sorry the photos are a bit blurry; we were so excited!

 

Turbot, yellow pepper, gremolata

 

Simple and perfectly executed, as ever

 

Scallops, cod, clams, cannellini

 

After dinner, one of the floor managers made a point of coming over to ask how we had enjoyed our evening.

 

Words failed us.

 

 

Dinner in Murano

I should have been in Venice.

 

Our flight was booked for 27 March, for a short break before my operation that was scheduled for May 1st.

Still, we can look back to dinner in Murano a couple of weeks ago; that’s Angela Hartnett’s restaurant in Mayfair, not the island.

 

View of the kitchen from The Chef’s Table, Murano

 

 

My brother-in-law Richard is a director at Smart Catering, where Angela is executive chef; a dinner at the chef’s table was his birthday treat.

 

 

Tuscan Rosato with the veal

 

 

The head chef came out of the kitchen to introduce herself, and the menu.

‘I’m Lauren; I’m not Italian, as you can probably tell’,

she said, deadpan, in a Scottish accent, before running through the meal: canapés, a starter, pasta, a fish course, a meat course, cheese, and no fewer than three puddings.

‘Let’s hope we get through to pudding’, said Richard.

 

 

Ali, the Sommelier, who chose the wines for the evening, loving her work

 

 

Between courses, a chef came out of the kitchen to explain his or her dish.

“I love it when the chefs have to come out and describe their dish, in fully formed sentences”

commented Ali, as Harry emerged with his outstanding Vitello Tonnato.

 

 

Vitello Tonnato

 

Lauren invited us into the kitchen to plate our own fish course: halibut, carrot. buttermilk, fennel & Pernod velouté.

 

Lauren setting us the Halibut Challenge

 

The pressure was on.

 

On the pass: ‘Yes, chef!’

 

 

Ali was wearing a gold bunch of grapes as a brooch. Asked if it was her sommelier’s badge,

“Yes, I bought it on eBay – it’s bigger and more feminine than the official one”.

 

 

Rare breed pork, fermented cabbage, quince, mustard

 

 

The pork was so good, I forgot to take a picture before getting stuck in.

 

 

We were presented with a menu at the end of the evening (to make sure we had been concentrating)
It was an outstanding and truly memorable experience.  The different dishes were subtle, concentrated, beautifully executed – and the wines were marvellous, and thoughtfully chosen.
I’ll write about the food and wine pairings in my page ‘And to Drink?’
The team, led by the terrific duo of Lauren and Ali, is exceptional.

Murano by Angela Hartnett, 20-22 Queen Street, London W1J 5PP.

A calm and happy kitchen, and a real sense of welcome and hospitality front-of-house.

 

https://www.muranolondon.com/

 

Café Murano: St James’s; Covent Garden; Bermondsey Street

2019 – the Food Stuff

There’s a weekend to be planned here – nothing that couldn’t be achieved with the services of a private jet, and perhaps a bit of time travel.

You could have breakfast in Paris, take a coffee in Stockholm, then lunch on Torcello, or Borough Market in London if you prefer.

Dinner? Back to Paris, on to Amsterdam? Or (my choice) Stockholm again for a magnificent steak.

I’ll let you take in an hour’s TV to recover, then if you still have the stamina, we’ll head over to Venice for a nightcap.

 

 

Best Breakfast of 2019?

It has to be The French Bastards, for ‘A croissant worth crossing Paris for’

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-Kj 

 

Best croissant in Paris?

 

 

Mid morning coffee

A seriously good cup of coffee is one of life’s great pleasures for me, and they don’t get much better than at Robert’s Coffee, in the Saluhall market, Stockholm.

The cinnamon buns are a bonus. (They take cards only, not cash, so you won’t even have to bother buying kronor).

 

 

Fika at Robert’s Coffee, Stockholm

 

What have the Swedes ever done for us?

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-Cv

 

Lunch in the Lagoon….

Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo on the island of Torcello; all the better for being unexpected.

Torcello is about an hour from Venice; you can reach it on a scheduled service, changing at Burano, using your vaporetto pass.

 

Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo, Torcello

 

The ancient basilica on Torcello predates the city of Venice. To reach it from the quay, you walk along the side of a canal. The most famous restaurant on the island is the Locanda Cipriani nearby, but you pass three others on the way.

We weren’t looking for a grand lunch, but something to fortify us for the basilica.

The first place looked fun, but was packed with families queuing for pizza.

The second was a fairly standard Trattoria. We walked on.

The third had a big dining room with a covered terrace at the back, opening onto a garden. The menu looked as if we could find something suitable, so we went in and were greeted with smiles and shown to a table.

It was a good decision, even the bread basket was exceptional. We had a pretty antipasto of colourful steamed vegetables, all tasting intensely of themselves, served warm to bring out the fruitiness of the olive oil dressing.

Then black squid ink pasta, with crab, samphire and rosemary; orecchiette with turbot and cherry tomatoes.

We drank Arneis, a white from Piemonte.

After lunch we wandered round the garden and may have dropped off on a bench in the pergola. Just for a moment….

Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo is open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday, and dinner on Friday and Saturday.

 

Contatti

 

….and at Borough Market

Closer to home but equally unexpected was discovering the new Brindisa Kitchen at Borough Market. It’s inspired by the bars in Spanish markets.

I saw it had opened the day before I’d arranged to meet a friend for a day of shopping and sustenance (Instagram has its uses).

 

A perfect scallop

 

A glass of Manzanilla with a single perfect scallop.

Hake & mussels.

I love watching chefs happy in their work, interacting with their customers, and the bar staff were charming.

 

The head chef, Brindisa Kitchen

 

Hake & mussels

 

https://boroughmarket.org.uk/traders/brindisa-kitchen

Dinner?

Honourable mention for the Sweetbreads at Frenchie’s Wine Bar, Paris.

So good, I ate them twice.

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-Kh

 

‘Everything, I want to eat everything’

 

 

Caffé Toscanini in Amsterdam for the whole experience of food and hospitality; a perfect aperitif followed by an accomplished Italian meal, delivered with good humour and expertise.

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-Kh

 

The bar at Caffe Toscanini, Amserdam

 

The prize goes to A.G. for the best steak of 2019. I’ll be lucky to find one as good in 2020.

Most of the tables were occupied by groups of men sharing massive steaks.

There were also a few couples on date nights, sharing massive steaks.

‘Vegetarians, look away now’.

 

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-Oh

 

A.G. – ‘vegetarians, look away now’

 

 

TV Show: Remarkable places to eat, Episode 1, in which chef Angela Hartnett takes Maitre d’ Fred Siriex to her favourites in Venice.

It’s a full hour of television, so they have time to show you the dedication and hard work that goes into delivering the best ingredients and food experiences in the city. These are not cynical tourist traps. Nothing is done without effort: wading chest deep in the lagoon to harvest seafood; delivering vegetables by boat and trolley to Bruno Gavagnin, the quietly spoken but demanding chef at Alle Testiere; walking half a kilometre over bridges carrying boxes of perfect patisserie to Caffe Florian, from their production kitchen to Piazza San Marco – several times throughout the day.

At the time of writing it’s not available on BBC iPlayer, but it’s sure to turn up on your TV sooner or later.

 

Here are the fishermen:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0006vw3

Here’s a clip:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07g3dkl

 

 

FANCY A NIGHTCAP?

 

Let’s head back to Venice, for a glass of wine at Vino Vero. 

You’ll find it here, on my page ‘And to drink?’

 

https://wp.me/P7AW4i-aV

Foolproof Fillet of Beef

Recipe of the year, 2019: foolproof fillet of beef.

 

My brother-in-law Richard Groves cooked this for his birthday dinner last year, and directed me to the recipe by Tom Kerridge, who serves it with Yorkshire puddings as a Sunday roast.

It’s counter-intuitive, in that it seems to take almost no cooking. It’s rare, deep pink and juicy, but releases no blood. (If any of your guests are squeamish about rare beef, you could flash fry their slices).

I cooked it on two occasions, and both times it went down a storm.

 

Treacle fillet of beef

 

Here’s the link to the recipe:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/treacle_cured_beef_with_35837

In summary, marinade a piece of beef fillet overnight in a mixture of black treacle and water. The next day, drain it and reserve the marinade. Pat the meat dry and sear it briefly in butter, then roast it for 45 minutes on the lowest possible setting of your oven.

Reduce the marinade by about half, and season to taste.

 

 

If you are a regular follower of this blog, you will by now have a supply of Anthony Bourdain’s demi glace in your freezer; this is the occasion to employ it.

“Some dishes know when you’re afraid. They sense it, like horses, and will ‘misbehave’. . . Do not be afraid”.

“Let me stress again: DO NOT EVER BOIL YOUR STOCK!”

“Your butter for finishing a sauce will be ready and on station. It will be f**king SOFT”.

https://wp.me/p7AW4i-qk

 

 

If you failed to follow his advice, (and mine) you will have to make do with a splash of red wine. Add it to the reduced marinade, and finish with a knob of butter (soft, of course) if you feel cheffy.

Serve with Horseradish Crème Fraîche: mix crème fraîche, grated fresh horseradish and a good dollop of Dijon mustard. Taste it.

 

‘Do try this at home’

It was so successful, we decided to repeat the exercise as dinner for four in Norfolk, on two consecutive evenings during the August heatwave. We served it at ambient temperature, with a potato salad and simply dressed tomatoes.

It was possibly even better the next day, as a sort of deconstructed Surf ‘n’ Turf.

I’ve never really seen the point of steak and lobster on the same plate. We ate the lobster first, a good decision as it was the best and freshest lobster we’ve ever eaten.

 

 

Surf. Then Turf.

 

Friends had recommended C. A. Seafoods, run by the Westons, as purveyors of the freshest and cheapest crabs on the Norfolk coast (there are several Weston families in Norfolk who fish or deal in seafood).

 

Driving out of Weybourne village towards the station (the North Norfolk Railway, which runs steam trains from Sheringham to Holt) it’s one of the last houses on the left, with refrigerated vans outside, and a little sign on the pavement.

It went like this:

I walked up to the window, which opened as I approached. “I’m hoping to buy four half lobsters”

“Do we have any lobsters, Eileen?”

“I think so, I’ll go and look. Do you want ’em dressed?”

There were about eight ladies inside. In the time I waited, they finished picking and packing crabs (a couple of hundred at a rough count), and cleaned down, leaving the place spotless.

Sure enough, Eileen re-emerged with my lobsters, priced at a reasonable £6 a half.

 

 

In December 2019, the Westons opened a fishmonger’s shop in Sheringham:

https://www.edp24.co.uk/business/sheringham-fish-shop-ca-seafood-business-fifty-years-hopes-1-5815342

Lisa Elmqvist – the legacy of the fisherman’s daughter

Östermalms Saluhall for lunch and dinner

 

The renovation of the market building, Östermalms Saluhall, started 3 years ago. Work is running late, and it’s now expected to re-open in 2020. In the meantime the market is located in a temporary structure across the street.

 

Saluhall is emerging from the scaffolding

 

 

We’d booked for dinner at Lisa Elmqvist on Saturday, but couldn’t resist lunch at Nybroe Smørrebrød.

 

 

Lunch at Nybroe Smorrebrod

ø

 

 

They offer a daily selection of three open sandwiches, usually fish, meat and cheese – a three course lunch on one plate. Today it was Skagen Salad (prawns in dill mayonnaise); roast meat with mushrooms, sun dried tomato, tarragon mayo; Brie, chutney, pear & thyme.

The meat was quite dark, and I asked the waitress if it was venison.

‘It’s roast beef, but I don’t know which animal’.

 

 

A light three course lunch

 

 

Dinner at Lisa Elmqvist

 

Lisa Elmqvist was a fisherman’s daughter who traded fish and seafood on the Stockholm waterfront in the 1920s. She quickly gained a reputation for the quality of her wares, and opened a stall at Östermalms Saluhall which continues to attract a loyal clientele of seafood lovers.

Run by the fourth generation, it’s still very much a family concern, proudly bearing a royal warrant, and a dozen recommendations in the Michelin Guide.

A very charming waitress crouched next to the table to explain the menu, in perfect English, and take our order.

 

 

The kitchen at Lisa Elmqvist

 

Laxtartar: cured and fresh salmon tartar with Dijon mustard, shallot, pickled cucumber noodles, trout roe and potato crisps.

Six Special Fine de Claire oysters.

Pike Perch (Zander), mushroom and cream sauce.

Butter-fried lemon sole with beetroot.

(The inevitable happened, and our waitress very kindly brought sparkling water to dab the beetroot juice that had landed on my new linen shirt).

 

Lemon Sole

 

 

Playlist: Philadelphia soul, George Benson, Bill Withers. Sade. Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, Jackie Wilson, The Staple Singers.

Mercifully, it seems to be an Abba-free zone.

 

https://www.lisaelmqvist.se/sv

 

 

Stürehof

 

Dinner at Stürehof had been a highlight of our trip in January, and we returned for lunch on our last day. This time we were able to sit outside.

The crab was outstanding, and so was the people-watching.

 

The crab at Sturehof

 

 

https://sturehof.com/en/

 

 

 

Dinners in Paris, and a long day for the fishmongers

First night nerves

We like to mark our evening of arrival in Paris with dinner at La Fontaine de Mars. You know you’re in Paris from the moment you step through the door.

This time I’d left it too late to make a reservation, so we gave Le Bistrot d’Eléonore et Maxence a call.

 

A sunny afternoon at Le Bistrot

 

 

Le Maitre d’ greeted us when we arrived, and explained apologetically that our table wasn’t quite ready – ‘may I offer you une coupe de champagne while you’re waiting?’

It was a busy Saturday evening, the heavens had opened outside, and the diners were clearly in no hurry to vacate our table.

Le Maitre d’ apologised again, ‘I will pour you champagne, champagne, champagne until your table is ready’.

 

 

 

A poached egg on summer veg – “one egg is un oeuf”

 

 

As it turned out, he was as good as his word, so we were quite mellow when we went to our table about 40 minutes later, after browsing the menu

Highlights from our meal included a starter of a poached egg on green summer vegetables, dressed with pesto; tuna tataki as a main (it would have fed three people!) and a tartare of hand cut Charolais veal.

 

 

Veal tartare avec son garniture

 

 

It’s a small, lively restaurant in a residential area. The staff are friendly and attentive, even on a busy Saturday evening, and the food coming out of the tiny open kitchen was très bon.

Playlist: Parisien. 

Le Bistrot d’Eléonore et Maxence     www.le-bem.com

 

It was a real find, I wish it had an equivalent where I live.

 

(Actually, it does. If you live in west London you could save the price of the Eurostar ticket by booking a table at Le Petit Citron in Shepherds Bush).

Home

 

 

La Fontaine de Mars

 

We were able to revisit La Fontaine later in the week. It’s one of those reassuring places that never changes; even the waiters seem to sign up for life.

The menus are laminated, and there’s a classic every day. ‘It’s Sunday, so it must be poulet roti, pommes de terre puree’. Evidemment.

They bring a blackboard to your table with daily specials (there’s always cassoulet)  and my starter of asparagus and poached egg with foie gras sauce didn’t disappoint.

The FT’s restaurant critic recently wrote something like ‘it couldn’t be more French than Piaf singing La Marseillaise with a string of onions round her neck’. He wasn’t wrong.

Read more about La Fontaine de Mars in “Paris is always a good idea” https://wp.me/p7AW4i-iV

 

http://www.fontainedemars.com

129, Rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 75007     0033 (0)1 47 05 46 44

 

 

La Fontaine de Mars

 

Asparagus, egg, foie gras

 

 

 

D’chez eux

 

On the day of departure it made sense to have lunch locally. “Our” apartment in the 7th is in a residential neighbourhood, and there aren’t many restaurants on the doorstep.

We booked d’chez eux, which very roughly translates as ‘from their home’.

It was Mothers’ day, so there were several tables of three….

The menu is on the pricey side, and we weren’t looking for the full ‘Français’ before taking the train home, so we went for the prix fixe, choosing oeufs russes followed by the seabass, which was beautifully cooked, and a glass of Aligoté.

 

 

Seabass, endive and vegetables

 

 

We’re not big on puddings, but this was our main meal of the day, so a crème caramel seemed appropriate, as did something that looked like Irish coffee on the menu, and turned out to be a plate with dark chocolate mousse, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a profiterole, and an espresso on the side.

 

 

Pouding

 

http://www.chezeux.com/fr/

 

 

Market shopping on avenue de Saxe

 

 

We shopped at Avenue de Saxe midweek,

where the best produce attracts the longest queue….

 

 

“Greengrocer number 5, please”

 

 

I’ve always been amused by the expression ‘French breakfast radish’

 

 

Breakfast. Just add butter and salt

 

 

It’s more than a food market, and everything is in season.

 

 

Summer chapeaux

 

 

The Ladies of the 7th go out in force with their trolleys

 

 

Chariot at the ready

 

 

 

 

Food shopping recommendations on rue Cler & avenue de Saxe    –    https://wp.me/p7AW4i-k5

 

 

 

Lunch on rue Cler, where it had been a long day for the fishmongers

 

Le Petit Cler is a café owned by La Fontaine de Mars. We pitched up for a late lunch, and it was filling up fast; we didn’t have a reservation, but the manager was charming, and promised to seat us – he had a booking who hadn’t turned up yet; he would give them another five minutes, then he would give us their table.

On the dot of the fifth minute they arrived, but shortly afterwards we had secured a table outside, and felt very smug as a queue formed on the street.

As we tucked into our croque monsieur and tartine de chevre, it became obvious that the fishmongers opposite at La Sablaise had had a long and busy day; closing the shop was a laborious process. Quantities of ice were being shovelled into the gutter outside to be flushed into the drain.

They too were in need of refreshment.

A waiter from nearby Café Roussillon delivered a big bowl of frites, and a tray laden with beers, a glass of wine and an Aperol spritz.

Outside a couple of passing children invented a new street game; ‘Breaking the Ice’.

 

 

Breaking the ice on rue Cler

 

 

Shortly afterwards one of the mongers took the tray back to the café, and returned with another round of drinks.

 

And more frites. Naturellement, comme d’habitude….