Food Stuff

CHOUX, AMSTERDAM

 

Fixed menu, 4 courses for €37.50, or 3 for €32.50 if you skip dessert, with €30 for 4 wine pairings. The dishes consist largely of vegetables (apart from the oyster on this occasion, and they are careful to ask if you have any allergies or preferences).

 

Crusty sourdough bread was brought to the table, with a generous dollop of their own whipped butter, made from buttermilk with a little salt, so it has a pleasant sourness.

 

A pretty plate to start: Romaine heart, agretti, wild (green) strawberry, almonds, crumbled kefir cheese. A frozen disc of lovage and geranium leaf. A purée of Romaine and almond.

 

Romaine heart, kefir, almonds

 

 

Next course: Morels, garden peas and pea purée, gnocchi, parsnip with a lemon verbena foam. While I’m not wild about “molecular cuisine”, this foam was like the lightest of salad dressings, pulling the flavours of the dish together. Earthy morels, with a sweetness from the peas.

 

Morels, garden peas, lemon verbena

 

 

A fat wild oyster from Wadenzee, poached, with a thick wedge of slow cooked cabbage, juicy but still crunchy. Sunflower seeds, dill oil, oyster beurre blanc. Saline not salty, savoury.

 

Wild oyster, oyster beurre blanc

 

 

Another pretty plate to finish: Poached rhubarb, rhubarb foam over a white chocolate cream. Sharp Raspberry meringue bonbons. Wild magnolia sorbet (too scented for me). A scattering of pistachios.

 

Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb. And magnolia sorbet.

 

Good rich espresso, with a chocolate made in house.