Category: Food

Lisa Elmqvist – the legacy of the fisherman’s daughter

Östermalms Saluhall for lunch and dinner   The renovation of the market building, Östermalms Saluhall, started 3 years ago. Work is running late, and it’s now expected to re-open in 2020. In the meantime the market is located in a temporary structure across the street.       We’d booked for dinner at Lisa Elmqvist […]

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“Vegetarians, look away now”

Our taxi driver was puzzled.   A neon light outside gave the only clue to finding the restaurant. You go down spiral concrete stairs with tiled walls, then two or three flights up. It felt like going into a 1970s multistorey car park, or the entrance to a speakeasy.       At the top […]

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‘What have the Swedes ever done for us?’ – an update

A postcard from Stockholm       In January this year, I noticed that ‘the Swedes wear a lot of black. Quilted coats, black suits, leggings, stout boots, that sort of thing’.   After a return visit in August, I can now report that this summer’s colour is…. black (but with rather more leg exposed). […]

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‘My baby don’t care for high-tone prices’

Or, as Nina Simone actually sang, ‘he don’t care for high-tone places’ I’m increasingly less interested in ‘fine dining’ establishments, and attracted by places that offer simpler food in a less formal setting. Well chosen ingredients, prepared with intelligence in the kitchen. Well judged combinations of flavour, and no more than five main components on […]

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Dinners in Paris, and a long day for the fishmongers

First night nerves We like to mark our evening of arrival in Paris with dinner at La Fontaine de Mars. You know you’re in Paris from the moment you step through the door. This time I’d left it too late to make a reservation, so we gave Le Bistrot d’Eléonore et Maxence a call.   […]

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A tale of two Frenchies. Well, actually five.

Frenchie Restaurant in Paris opened on rue du Nil in 2015, and quickly became a hot ticket. We tried to book a table for dinner in May this year, but they still fill the restaurant months ahead. Frenchie Wine Bar opposite doesn’t take reservations; it opens at 6.30pm, and the advice is to turn up […]

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A croissant worth crossing Paris for

Word was circulating that a new bakery is producing the best croissants in Paris. On a visit to the city in May, naturally I went to investigate rue Oberkampf, looking for No 61. The 11th Arrondissement is roughly equivalent to London’s Shoreditch, with little independent shops, a market, and tattoo parlours.         […]

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The Seafood Bar

The Seafood Bar, Amsterdam   We passed the restaurant in the morning near Vondelpark, while walking along Van Baerlestraat towards the Van Gogh Museum. What we could see of the pristine, white tiled interior looked promising, and the empty plastic crates stacked outside boded well, even on a Monday. Returning at lunchtime, we had to […]

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Just a quiet Monday night in Amsterdam

Caffè Toscanini, Amsterdam   Arriving early for our reservation, we asked if we could have an aperitif at the bar. I could see we were in safe hands, they stocked all the right brands. I ordered an Americano from the drinks list; equal parts Bèrto Bitter and white vermouth, with a (mere) splash of Fevertree […]

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A “Totally Swedish” moment

Putting together a simple Smörgåsbord   I’ve been writing about the Nordic food adventures I had in January while on a brief weekend in Stockholm, and since then I’ve been experimenting in the kitchen. Quantities and measurements needn’t be too precise, these are as much processes as recipes; proportions are important but not inflexible. If […]

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