Wine & food matching at Murano

Not everyone wants to know what I’ve been drinking (so to speak).

I usually post this sort of thing on what’s categorised by WordPress, the template that’s the framework of this blog, as a ‘Page’.

The page is called “And to drink?” and you’ll find it here: https://wp.me/P7AW4i-aV

I update it as a cumulative drinks diary, so if you’re interested in the world of beverages, it’s worth checking in from time to time.

This time, with 8 wines, carefully chosen to go with 8 courses, (plus canapés, and salumi and breadsticks in case we left hungry) I thought the liquid aspect of dinner at Murano warranted a standalone Post.

 

We were greeted with a glass (or two. Well, several) of Champagne.

 

  • Canapés: Parmesan churros (a savoury doughnut); Mushroom & mozzarella Arancini: Mackerel tartare; Pickled beetroot.
  • A. R. Lenoble, ‘Intense’ Mag 15 Brut, non vintage.

The cuvée is unusually 45% Pinot Meunier (for fragrance), 45% Pinot Noir (for body) and 15% Chardonnay; a crisp and appetising apéritif with the canapés.

 


  • Vitello Tonnato followed.
  • Angela Hartnett’s 2017 Sangiovese Rosato, a dry, pale pink Tuscan from Tenute Fertuna.

Creamy textured; strawberry, white fruit & sour cherry notes cut through the richness of the veal.

 

 


  • Artichoke fagottini, pecorino fondue, Perigord truffle.
  • 2018 Greco, Pietracupa, Campania.

Declassified Greco di Tufo; savoury, nutty, orchard fruits & citrus, low acidity. A successful match for the difficult combination of Artichoke and truffle. 

 

 

 


  • Halibut, carrot, buttermilk, fennel & Pernod velouté.
  • 2018 I.G.T. Marche Bianco, ‘Terre Silvate’, La Distesa, Marche.

100% biodynamic Verdicchio: medium bodied, aromatic, with fennel notes and a salty, funky character.

 

 

 


  • Rare breed pork (roast loin & smoked belly), fermented cabbage, quince, mustard.
  • 2012 I.G.T Toscana, Póllera Rosso, Fattoria Ruschi Noceti, Tuscany.

The sommelier Ali told us this was a rare & obscure grape variety from somewhere in Italy. Emboldened by the champagne, I asked to taste it blind. ‘Pelaverga from Piemonte?’ I ventured? No. ‘Corvina from the Veneto, perhaps?’ No.

‘I know! A Sicilian from Mount Etna!’ I said with (ill-advised) confidence.

It turned out to be Pòllera, a grape native to Maremma in Tuscany (I’d never heard of it). The pork brought out flavours of cherry & plum in the wine.

 

 

 

 


  • Selection of cheese from La Fromagerie (Isle of Mull cheddar, Vacca Blue from Piemonte, Epoisse and Fleur Marie).
  • 2016 I.G.T. Vinetti delle Dolomiti, Teroldego, Foradori, Trentino Alto Adige.

Biodynamic wine, Teroldego is a relative of Syrah. Fresh acidity and dark fruit made friends with a fine selection of cheese.

 

 

 

 

 


  • Caramelised Amalfi Lemon tart, with a texture like crème brûlée.
  • 2016, Jurançon ‘La Magendia’, Lapeyre, Southwest France.

The intense acidity of the lemons went head to head with the orange and lemon citrus in the wine.

 

 

 

 


  • Chocolate marquise, confit orange. Chocolate mousse, rhubarb.
  • 2007 Passito di Malvasia, ‘Vigna dell Volta’, La Stoppa, Emilia-Romagna. 

Chocolate is notoriously tricky with wine. This unfiltered wine (decanted) worked a treat: nutty and savoury, intensely sweet with refreshing acidity.

 

 

There. We made it to pudding.

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