At the crossroads of civilisation

‘This is a printing office.’

 

The Fondamenta Nuove is the transport interchange facing San Michele, the cemetery island of Venice. As you leave the vaporetto, there’s a florist on the corner of Calle dei Buranelli, leading to Calle del Fumo, the street of smoke.

Walking down the street, you might not notice an unassuming shop window with a display of business cards and other printed materials. If you pause for a moment to look more closely, you will recognise some familiar names, with their contact information discreetly omitted:

 

Hugh Grant, Ben Affleck, Emma Watson.

 

Step inside the door, and enter the world of Gianni Basso, Stampatore.

 

 

 

‘An armoury of fearless truth against whispering rumour’

 

If you engage Gianni Basso in conversation it becomes apparent that he understands more English than you might think. When he shows you examples of his work, he casually makes sure they are either for A-list film stars, or residents of prestigious addresses around the world.

 

Work in progress

 

 

He loves to drop names; he showed us a series of prints from an old edition of ‘Pinocchio’, “I make for Angelina Jolie to give her children”.

I imagine the Venice Film Festival is a busy time.

 

 

A working press

 

 

He frequently drops the name Gutenberg, inventor of the hot metal printing press in the 15th century. There are several presses in use in the shop, and next door is Gianni’s museum, which he will show you if you’re interested, and he has time.

 

 

The museum next door – ‘crossroads of civilisation’

 

 

He’ll show you an ‘Ex Libris’ label with a cat motif that he printed for the writer Joseph Brodsky, saying wistfully that, like many of his former clients, ‘he is on the cemetery island’.

There are chests of drawers containing metal type, and a wide selection of images to choose from.

It’s a fascinating shop, and the work is exquisite.

 

 

Prints and cards for sale

 

We were there on a Friday morning to re-order some business cards. Usually a print run will take several days to turn round, and they don’t open at weekends. Gianni asked ‘when are you leaving?’ Our flight was due to leave on the following Monday, and he offered to have the cards ready by midday on that day, to save posting them.

 

Gianni Basso, happy in his work

 

As I checked the flight time on my mobile phone, he murmured ‘I don’t have one of those’. He doesn’t have a computer either, and the phone in the shop is a 1950s Bakelite model.

His son, Stefano, joined the business eight years ago. He takes care of email, but they don’t have a website. Gianni has had the shop for thirty-six years, after learning his trade for fifteen years from the monks of the Armenian monastery on the island of San Lazzaro.

 

The Armenian monastery, San Lazzaro

 

 

Gianni Basso Imprimatore, Calle del Fumo, Cannaregio 5306, Venezia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3 thoughts on “At the crossroads of civilisation

  1. Susan Cameron

    Alistair, this is fascinating. A time warp in a way and yet he could get your cards ready in time for you to take back.
    Amazing that there are still businesses like this surviving our technological age. Good for them. More people must use them…

     
    Reply

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