Lisa Elmqvist – the legacy of the fisherman’s daughter

Östermalms Saluhall for lunch and dinner


The renovation of the market building, Östermalms Saluhall, started 3 years ago. Work is running late, and it’s now expected to re-open in 2020. In the meantime the market is located in a temporary structure across the street.


Saluhall is emerging from the scaffolding



We’d booked for dinner at Lisa Elmqvist on Saturday, but couldn’t resist lunch at Nybroe Smørrebrød.



Lunch at Nybroe Smorrebrod




They offer a daily selection of three open sandwiches, usually fish, meat and cheese – a three course lunch on one plate. Today it was Skagen Salad (prawns in dill mayonnaise); roast meat with mushrooms, sun dried tomato, tarragon mayo; Brie, chutney, pear & thyme.

The meat was quite dark, and I asked the waitress if it was venison.

‘It’s roast beef, but I don’t know which animal’.



A light three course lunch



Dinner at Lisa Elmqvist


Lisa Elmqvist was a fisherman’s daughter who traded fish and seafood on the Stockholm waterfront in the 1920s. She quickly gained a reputation for the quality of her wares, and opened a stall at Östermalms Saluhall which continues to attract a loyal clientele of seafood lovers.

Run by the fourth generation, it’s still very much a family concern, proudly bearing a royal warrant, and a dozen recommendations in the Michelin Guide.

A very charming waitress crouched next to the table to explain the menu, in perfect English, and take our order.



The kitchen at Lisa Elmqvist


Laxtartar: cured and fresh salmon tartar with Dijon mustard, shallot, pickled cucumber noodles, trout roe and potato crisps.

Six Special Fine de Claire oysters.

Pike Perch (Zander), mushroom and cream sauce.

Butter-fried lemon sole with beetroot.

(The inevitable happened, and our waitress very kindly brought sparkling water to dab the beetroot juice that had landed on my new linen shirt).


Lemon Sole



Playlist: Philadelphia soul, George Benson, Bill Withers. Sade. Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, Jackie Wilson, The Staple Singers.

Mercifully, it seems to be an Abba-free zone.





Dinner at Stürehof had been a highlight of our trip in January, and we returned for lunch on our last day. This time we were able to sit outside.

The crab was outstanding, and so was the people-watching.


The crab at Sturehof







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