Swedish Food, Part Two: my quest for a meatball
January 24, 2019
First, a waterborne Smörgåsbord on the Steamship Stockholm.
Invited to the city of Stockholm for a birthday celebration, we were instructed by our generous hosts to be ready to board ship at 11.30 on Sunday for a prompt departure at midday.
The captain, they told us, would not wait for latecomers.
The round trip of the archipelago would take precisely three hours.
It was bitterly cold on deck, so that allowed plenty of time to explore the brunch buffet.
Gravlax – TICK.
Herring – TICK.
Akvavit (and singing) – TICK.
The pickled herrings were perfect pieces of fillet, cured in a variety of dressings.
There was also a rather disturbingly named dish: “Kycklinggryta med Svamp och Dragon”, which turned out to be a chicken stew with mushrooms, flavoured with tarragon.
Three hours later we sailed back into harbour, already planning to return in summer for an evening cruise (and dinner).
STRÖMMA DINING CRUISES
S/S Stockolm, Quay 16, Nybroviken.
“Later that evening, back on shore”
Finally, at Sturehof in central Stockholm, came the opportunity to tick off Skagen salad, followed by meatballs.
Sturehof is a civilised seafood brasserie and bar.
The staff wear jackets with gold epaulettes; black in the bar, white in the restaurant, and the busboys (and girls) sport a rather fetching shade of red, perhaps best described as “Boiled Lobster”.
Skagen is a simple salad of baby shrimp mixed with mayonnaise and dill. Chef and author Magnus Nilsson advises against adding any kind of onion, it makes it smell “like standing in a dirty second-hand clothes store”.
Here it was properly simple, served with fried bread and a wedge of lemon.
The menu is not exclusively seafood.
There were Meatballs, which came with mashed potato, a thick gravy, pickled cucumber and lingonberries.
Lingonberries are slightly sour fruit (similar to cranberries) which provide a welcome tartness to rich dishes, and a hit of Vitamin C in the Nordic winter.
2 Stureplein, Östermalm, 114 35 Stockhom. https://www.sturehof.com/
0046 (0)8 440 5730
Open 365 days a year until 2am