A street market on Avenue de Saxe
May 9, 2017
Street market on Avenue de Saxe, Paris 7eme arondissement.
Saturday 5 November 2016
Les Invalides from the Avenue de Breteuil
A bright clear morning, a ten minute stroll from our apartment on Avenue de Breteuil to pick up provisions, including an easy supper for the evening. We were catching a train to Vernon to visit an exhibition at Giverny…..
The market looked promising as we approached, and as we walked through it I was blown away by the choice and quality on offer. Set in the central reservation between the two thoroughfares of Avenue de Saxe, it was laid out along two aisles, and it took a few minutes to realise how much was there, and how it compares to a London market.
A marker of a good farmers market in the UK is that it will have a fish stall selling the catch from a day boat. I was encouraged that the first stall I looked at had a full display of fish from Brittany, and a man in oilskin overalls was busy shucking oysters. I decided to walk on and make some choices before buying anything, and after a few minutes I estimated I had passed half a dozen fish stalls from Dieppe or other fishing ports. In addition, there were specialist stalls devoted to oysters, scallops, and even snails.
There were butchers, traiteurs and charcutiers, cheesemongers and vendors of Italian or Lebanese products, plus ready made dishes and products to take home, and olives, nuts and dried fruits – in most categories you could choose between at least two stalls.
Oh, and there were also odd stalls interspersed among the food, like kitchen utensils, vintage bric-a-brac, and an old chap who would repair your cane chair or upholstery.
There were superb fruit and vegetables, some of them organic, and very much in tune with the early autumn season. Wild mushrooms were plentiful.
A flower stall. Good bread, not so many stalls, perhaps because there is an excellent bakery close to the market. Two or three stalls were selling wine from Jura, Beaujolais and Burgundy.
The market was doing good business, with the prosperous residents from the local apartments, and ladies and gentlemen “d’un certain age” (who had a knack of wielding their shopping trolleys like Boadicea’s chariot as they negotiated the crowded aisles).
There were several traders offering the quintessential street food of Paris – rotisserie chicken oozing fat onto a pan of potatoes or frites underneath. We decided that would be our supper, and picked a stall we liked the look of, the owner seemed to know what he was doing as he sold us half of a good sized chicken and a bag of golden frites. He assured us we could reheat them in a frying pan, and gave us a ladleful of the roasting juices to lubricate the process.
Saxe-Breteuil Market, Avenue de Saxe, 75007.
Thursday 7am – 2.30pm, Saturday 7am – 3pm